Givenchy's Fall/Winter 2017-2018 ready-to-wear collection, showcased at Paris Fashion Week under the creative direction of Ricardo Tisci, marked a significant moment in the house's history. It wasn't merely a presentation of clothing; it was a theatrical statement, a powerful narrative woven through meticulously crafted garments, bold silhouettes, and a deeply felt atmosphere. This collection, imbued with a sense of both darkness and ethereal beauty, reflected Tisci's signature aesthetic while hinting at a transition, a subtle shift towards a new chapter in Givenchy's ongoing story. The concurrent launch of the "Awakened Hands, Awakened Minds" high jewellery collection further underscored this theme of evolution and the interplay between artistry and scientific progress.
The Givenchy FW 17-18 runway show wasn't just a parade of clothes; it was an experience. The set design, the music, the styling – all contributed to a cohesive and deeply immersive presentation. Tisci, known for his dramatic and often gothic-inspired aesthetic, didn't disappoint. The collection explored a complex interplay of opposing forces: light and shadow, strength and vulnerability, tradition and rebellion. This duality was reflected in the diverse range of garments presented, from sharply tailored suits and structured outerwear to flowing gowns and delicate lace detailing.
The collection's color palette was equally multifaceted. Deep blacks and brooding grays formed the foundation, providing a stark backdrop for pops of vibrant color – crimson reds, electric blues, and flashes of metallic gold. These contrasting colors heightened the drama and emphasized the collection's inherent tension. The use of texture was equally crucial. Rough, heavy fabrics like wool and leather were juxtaposed with delicate silks and sheer chiffons, creating an intriguing interplay of weight and fluidity. This juxtaposition mirrored the collection's thematic complexity, reinforcing the idea of opposing forces existing in harmony.
Deconstructing the Silhouettes:
The silhouettes themselves were a key element of the FW 17-18 collection. Tisci's signature strong shoulders were present, but they were often softened by flowing fabrics or draped details, preventing them from feeling overly rigid or militaristic. The collection featured a range of silhouettes, from sharply tailored pantsuits that exuded power and confidence to romantic, flowing gowns that whispered of ethereal beauty. Many pieces incorporated layers, adding depth and complexity to the overall aesthetic. Long, flowing coats, often adorned with intricate embroidery or embellishments, were a recurring motif, adding an element of mystery and drama.
The use of embellishment was not excessive, but rather carefully considered. Intricate embroidery, delicate lace, and subtle metallic accents were used sparingly, adding a touch of opulence without overwhelming the overall design. This restraint further emphasized the strength and sophistication of the collection's core silhouettes. The detailing wasn't merely decorative; it served to enhance the narrative, adding layers of meaning and complexity to the garments.
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